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Dislocated Southern Cooking: Hoppin’ John

Derby Day gave me the motivation to pull the recently-arrived Anson Mills rice and peas from the freezer (yes, they must be kept in the freezer). So while I tried to parse the 20-horse field into a favorite, the menu came together: smoked ham (what passed for country ham in Brooklyn), hoppin’ john, collard greens [...]

Outta the Ground, Onto the Table: Growing

Now about three weeks into the growing season, the early crops benefited from some warm days – and were tested by some cool ones. We’re getting April in May. Love the rain; the cool nights worry me. Collard greens are looking fine – deep green, getting nice broad leaves. Some of the peas have flowered [...]